The real Sardinia - but without roughing it
The coastal regions of Sardinia, as I outlined in my earlier post, have been shaped by successive waves of invaders, from the Phoenicians of ancient times to the super rich of today. The mountainous interior, to which the locals retreated, scratching a harsh living as nomadic shepherds or peasant farmers, was left largely untouched by outsiders or progress. Hence the relative shortage of hotels in the Barbagia, the island’s highest and most inaccessible region (from the Latin Barbaricum, which roughly translates as “here be barbarians”). There is, however, one absolute gem – Hotel Su Gologone, a little corner of civilization surrounded by a rugged landscape of precipitous peaks and deserted valleys.
A hotel well hidden
Build it and they will come
In the 1960s Peppeddu Palimodde and his wife Pasqua opened a small restaurant next to the picturesque Su Gologone spring at the foot of the Supramonte Mountains. Although a beautiful spot it was well off the beaten track at a time when few visitors ever ventured inland. The menu offered traditional Sardinian fare, featuring cheese from local sheep and meat grilled in front of an open fire. As its reputation spread diners were tempted from afar and a few rooms were added. Today the restaurant, and the hotel that has grown around it, is one of the island’s most highly regarded.
Popular, even outside of peak season
We arrived about an hour before sundown, driving along a narrow road with golden pastures on either side. The hotel, although on a rocky outcrop rising from a broad plain, was entirely hidden amidst a mass of olive, myrtle and pine trees.
Our jaunty little Fiat 500 bumped over the flagstones of the sweeping drive and we halted amidst a dismounting herd of MAMILs (Middle Aged Men In Lycra, otherwise known as cyclists). I was surprised at the number of cars under the trees and the approach to reception was flanked by tables and chairs with guests enjoying evening drinks. I had expected the hotel to be relatively empty. Talking later to owner Giovanna (daughter of Peppeddu and Pasqua), we discovered that there was not a spare room to be had, despite the fact it was only the first week in June.
A pool all to oneself
Experience, experience, experience
The secret of the hotel’s success stems from the fact that it’s a family business with a clear sense of purpose. Giovanna’s parents wanted to offer an authentic Sardinian experience and Giovanna has pursued this goal with fervour and imagination. Described as an “Experience Hotel”, it delivers in abundance.
The scene is set by the architecture and décor, which is very traditional. The scale is personal and intimate, with a scattering of one and two storey buildings hugging the line of the hillside amidst a thick covering of trees and flowering shrubs. It looks so natural that I assumed these were ancient barns and dwellings that had been recently converted. I was amazed to discover that they were all relatively new, constructed a few at a time, as the hotel grew in popularity. At the time of our visit there were 72 rooms and suites, but so cleverly hidden and dispersed through the grounds it felt more like 20.
Our terrace, with hot tub. Perfect, any time of day,
Although the architecture was simple and rustic, making dramatic use of local materials, Giovanna’s artistic eye was much in evidence. Our suite, which was spacious and uncluttered, included a light filled living room that opened onto a private terrace shaded by large myrtle trees, with built-in seating, huge outdoor tub and views across a wonderful panorama of rolling fields and distant hills. Facing away from the rest of the hotel, and towards the sunset, it was incredibly secluded and peaceful – an ice cold beer and a bowl of fresh cherries, accompanied by the cooing of doves and the clanking of the bells from a faraway flock of sheep, was a Sardinian experience I won’t forget in a hurry.
cool bar, cooler beer
A bar to beat them all
The most exciting examples of Giovanna’s bold and confident style were the terraces which she has created at the very top of the hill. Each featured brilliant white stone walls and wood decking, but with brightly coloured cushions – green and turquoise for the terrace overlooking the kitchen garden, light purple for the rooftop Terrace of Dreams, green for the Wishes Terrace, orange and yellow on the terrace next to the art gallery. In the full glare of direct sunlight the effect was literally dazzling.
A bar to beat them all
The most spectacular terrace of all was entirely white – white decking clinging to white painted rock, with white cushions and triangles of white cloth stretched between white wooden poles to provide some shade. This was the Bar Tablao, a shoo-in for my list of top ten bars in the world – jaw droppingly dramatic. We sat here each evening before dinner sipping ice cold Sardinian beer, tucking into the platters of complimentary anti-pasti, watching the slanting sunlight strike the sheer cliffs of the Supramonte massif.
Not a bad spot for anti-pasti and beer
What’s been achieved at Su Gologone is a collection of stunning individual spaces, each very different, but which seem to flow into each other with grace and ease. You can choose to be lively and sociable, or find a romantic little corner all to yourself.
Traditional Sardinian fare - photo courtesy of Su Gologone
Hearty appetites required
The décor of the main restaurant was more traditional and homely, with a large sloping roof supported on huge timber beams and open at the far end so you looked out over the pool across a huge vista of gently undulating pastures and hills. As the hotel was full the restaurant was lively, especially as guest numbers were swelled by quite a few non-residents. There was a buzz of conversation, gales of laughter and quite a party atmosphere.
Restaurant, with pool, at dusk
The first night Sheila had a starter of ravioli and green beans as a main while I went straight for “meat from the spit”. Mine was a huge platter of different slabs of meat that had been roasted Sardinian style (in front of a roaring fire, not over charcoal), accompanied by aubergines in tomato sauce and parmesan. We finished off with a tour of the dessert buffet (which filled an entire room), offering enough combinations of sponge cake, cream, chocolate and assorted liqueurs to send us to bed swearing we wouldn’t be able to eat again for a week.
A great way to start the day
This wasn’t quite true. We stocked up on lots of calories at breakfast next morning, and despite a long hike in the mountains, found that the anti-pasti in the bar were sufficiently filling to make supper that night unnecessary. The final night, however, we stopped being such wimps and stepped up to the plate with gusto. To begin we went for the full buffet of starters, which included mountains of different seafood and locally cured meats. Then fisherman’s risotto (delightfully gooey and oily, richly dyed with paprika and yielding hearty mouthfuls of calamari, prawns, mussels). Then we bravely tackled the dessert buffet again.
The kitchen garden - even the scarecrow has style!
So, Su Gologone gives you an authentic taste of true Sardinian cuisine. What’s more, I could see for myself, that much of the produce was home grown in a huge and intensively cultivated kitchen garden.
Sardinian experiences for the soul
The third element of the experience was artistic and cultural. The hotel showcases the works of local artists and traditional crafts. There were a number of fascinating paintings as well as tapestries, embroidery, fabrics, pottery and objects made of wood and wrought iron on display and for sale in the various workshops.
The Art Studio Suite - striking but comfortable
Every day guests can also participate in a range of traditional craft courses from mosaic making to painting and drawing. There is a wood burning stone oven in one of the courtyards where guests can watch the local women in traditional costume prepare various types of bread, including pane carasau, a crunchy flatbread, that we thoroughly enjoyed with dinner.
Cookery demonstrations - picture courtesy of Su Gologone
On one evening we enjoyed listening to recital of traditional singing by local shepherds, followed by a glass of fennel flavoured grappa. Both were extraordinary, and the recital was quite unlike anything I had ever heard before (check out this video and you’ll get the idea!). Unfortunately we had to leave the night before the star gazing session on Saturday night. We made good friends with a couple who were able to attend and they emailed us this description:
“There were two very powerful computer controlled telescopes with three astronomers who had laser light pencil pointers that were able to point to any of the stars specifically requested by the star gazers. In particular the rings of Saturn were clearly visible - beautiful. They also pointed out a galaxy, unseen by the naked eye, that consisted of over a million stars more than 12,000 light years away. Absolutely incredibly beautiful and amazing to see. All of this in a light-pollution free and silent environment (except for the oohs and aahs and wows of those around us!).”
Proudly a family business
The final magic ingredient is Giovanna herself, who we arranged to meet on our final evening. As the owner I had expected her to be someone who quietly oversaw things from a distance – but I could not be more wrong. She’s a bundle of energy and enthusiasm who leads from the front, directing operations in the restaurant, overseeing the latest building projects and providing the artistic inspiration for the whole project. She and Anna, her niece, were literally bouncing with excitement when they welcomed us at dinner – they obviously love what they are doing and that attitude is infectious. Anna stressed how delighted she was to be working in the family business – she could hardly contain her sense of pride and pleasure.
A slow start to the day…
This sets the tone for the rest of the team. Arranging the appointment with Giovanna the manager on Reception said she’d meet us at dinner time. I asked “what time, exactly, is that?” He burst out laughing and said “Good question! Any time you like…She’s here all evening.” We then shared a few jokes about “Italian time”.
Then, returning slightly later than arranged, the same chap told me with a poker face that I had missed my appointment. I was shocked. He then broke into more laughter at having caught me out so easily. It’s not often you come across hotel staff who are obviously having fun, and are not afraid to share that with guests. In the restaurants all the staff were women, which gave it a very homely and informal atmosphere. They were busy, efficient but unflappable, and just plain happy and relaxed.
No reservations
We loved Su Gologone and were obviously not alone. There was a huge variety of guests, from a family with a disabled daughter to groups of energetic cyclists, a couple with a baby and a dog to honeymooners, and big parties of locals celebrating birthdays. We understand that it also regularly hosts Sardinian weddings for up to 500 people. Giovanna proudly told us that one of the families staying that week have been coming back for thirty years. Madonna was also a guest for a whole month while the filming her “Swept Away” movie on the nearby coast while other celebrity guests have included Richard Geer, Stella McCartney and Claudia Schiffer. That said, the atmosphere is delightfully unpretentious, with a warm family feel and a delightfully laidback vibe. Just go!
